The Anti-Algae System Seminar

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For those of you who where not able to attend the Anti-Algae Seminar on Tuesday evening, I’ve included the recording below. The download link for this MP3 audio file is below the player. Simply right click your mouse and select “save as” or “save file as” from the drop down menu and your download should begin shortly.

I’m happy to say we covered a lot of ground last night and answered some questions that many people have regarding algae control. The process that I outlined in the call is exactly the step by step system that I use to evaluate and treat nearly every pond we deal with.

By doing the things I discuss below, you can learn to “algae proof” your pond no matter how large or small it may be.

I answer a few questions towards the end of the session as well.

The Anti-Algae System
Click the play button below to activate the audio player…

[audio:http://tstmw2182.s3.amazonaws.com/MN3488_04132010180441754_1050115.mp3]

Download the MP3 Audio Here (right click and select “save as” to download.

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17 thoughts on “The Anti-Algae System Seminar”

  1. Mark– I couldn’t tune in on Tues., but listened to you today and thank you for the information on algae. Very useful info.— we will be switching over to Beneficial bacteria in the near future. I used your black onyx die and really like the color. Thanks.
    W. Dale Snyder

  2. Hello Mark thank you for your interest in ponds and the enfo for other people that have pond problems

  3. what about cattails my pond is full of them should i be trying to pull them out.right now they are covered in sludge.the algae is blooming also.

  4. Hi Ruby,
    Cattails are much different than algae, as are most aquatic weeds. There are two options for these, manual removal, meaning you need to probably dig them up to get rid of them. Chemically there is a product called Shore Klear that will knock them down and it is pretty targeted so as not to affect the rest of the pond.
    Mark

  5. My biological filter fills up with green/black gunk. We backflush the filter and that gets it off the filter pads and bio balls. You said we should not mess with the bio filter unless it gets clogged and flow starts to decrease. What is this gunk? If left alone and the pond is “balanced” will is break down? We have 2 ponds. The inground pond is about 1200 gallons and the above ground pond is about 1700 gallons. The water is pumped from the inground pond to the uv light, then thru the bio filter, then it flows to the above ground pond via a waterfall, and finally it flows thru another waterfall and back into the inground pond. We regularly add beneficial bacteria and we add an algea product occassionally. We live along the Gulf Coast near Galveston so winter is not that much of a problem. We can enjoy our pond almost all year.

  6. Hi Bah,
    In your type of filter with backwash capacity build it, it’s ok to use this for cleaning. These are designed to work this way, however many less expensive filters are not, so those ideally should be left to run undisturbed if possible.

    The gunk you see will either be organic (in which is should be able to be broken down by the bacteria in your filter ) or inorganic, in which it would not…and this material would be backwashed. You didn’t mention how often your backwashing or what type of problem this may be causing you but generally it sounds like a normal operation as long as your not having to backwash more than once a week for example.

    Hope this helps.
    Mark

  7. The only problem is that I am curious as to if it is good or bad stuff and if it is affecting the water clarity. We backflush about once a week. We can tell a real difference in the clarity of the water after a few days so we backflush and then the water looks much better after just a few hours of moving thru the “flushed out” bio filter.

  8. Hi,Mark
    I have a 1/4 acre pond that is fed by under ground water and run off. It is only 4′ deep at the deepest. 2 years ago I diverted a spring (55 degrees all year long) to feed the pond. Now I have a lot of algae (clumps). When it rains it clears up but in 2 days it back. Also I have an air system (under water). Please advise Thanks Bob

  9. Bah,
    In some ways, “good” and “bad” are relative. If you have fish and they are healthy and doing fine, then no big deal. But for many pond owners clarity is much desired…so anything that retards this is bad.

    Your filter is certainly “filtering” which is good but it would be great to determine the source of the clarity problem. It sounds like various forms of single cell algae and maybe sediment too. Is there any mucky build up at the bottom of the pond? Do you have any plants for shading? Do you have the ability to adjust the flow rate through the uv to see if it helps with clarity of the water?

    Thanks much,
    Mark

  10. Hi Mark,
    I have a 1800 gallon pond with bio falls and skimmer. Pond has a few koi & golfish (not overloaded, large snails and plants. The pond is two years old. we emptied it this spring and cleaned out the muck as we had alot of algae issues last year.I have a UV light also to take care of the green water issues. The pond has a PH of around 9.0 and all other measurement are within normal ranges except the phophates. I have tried to lower the ph to no avail. The phosphates in our tap water are 1.0ppm but my pond measures 10.0ppm,we have had alot of issues with blackbirds in the pond as they nest in the nighbors pine trees. c

  11. Could this be the reason for the high phosphates? We do not put fertilizer on the lawn, and the pond is a bit higher than lawn level.I have also not fertilizer the plants in the pond yet this spring. I have tried phos-out ( three treatments)but that has not lowered it yet.Any suggestions? I have a new batch of algae growing on everything. I have been adding bacteria on a weekly basis. Help!

  12. Hi Bob,
    Two things would be suggested since you already have aeration…good going on your part with that. Beneficial bacteria and possibly some pond dye due to the shallow areas. The seminar in particular talks about the bacteria so I won’t go into that here. The dye can be useful since the sun may be playing a big part in all of this. I’ll be doing a video tip on this soon so stay tuned.

    All the best,
    Mark

  13. Hi Patti,
    Yes phosphates are certainly a form of nutrients. They would commonly come from run off of fertilized ground. Golf courses deal with this a lot.

    Generally the best way is to make sure you’re using enough bacteria for the nutrient load. So it’s not just frequency and dosage for the pond volume itself but also the nutrients…add a bit more bacteria for a time and see if that helps. Also get your plants rolling that you like and let them help a bit. Try not fertilizing them unless it’s absolutely necessary…potted plants of course may need this but keep this to a minimum if you can.

    Mark

  14. Hi Mark,
    I have a 500 gallon pond with a water fall and 3 koi. I curently use the algae solution and have a barly ball. How often am I to change out the barly ball?

  15. Hi Pamela,
    Usually barley will last for several months in the straw form…pellets and liquid concentrate are shorter.

    Mark

  16. I would like to have your address so Ican send you a sample of algae that is in my pond I use Hydra Crystal worked wonderfull last year but not this year have 3250 gph pump aeration filter Al kuck

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