Recently I did a video on how to use some basic testing strips to check certain qualities of your pond water.
Today’s video is a continuation of that as we delve a bit deeper into the issue of pH and why it’s a good thing to know.
For any pond, of any size, there is what could be considered an acceptable or useful range in the pH readings. You might recall from high school science class that the pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, with the low number being pure acid and the upper number being purely alkaline. 7.0 is neutral.
In a pond, fairly neutral numbers are desired but the range can be quite wide. 6.0 or 6.5 up to 9.0 would be acceptable and not likely to cause any issues for fish or other wildlife. As you get outside these ranges problems can arise and fish health may suffer.
One point to note is that every “point” on the pH scale, such as 6.0 to 7.0 is actually a x10 difference in the relative amount of hydrogen ions in the water.
And finally as I mention in the video below, I’m not necessarily a fan of always adjusting the pH to make it perfect. It is true that for the most part, beneficial bacteria and many natural processes are aided or work better near a neutral pH and there are times when adjusting it is useful. By the same token, many ponds may have a pH that’s pretty well established by the source water, or even the construction of the pond itself. Sometimes those influences will dictate whether or not it’s even worthwhile to adjust pH and if it becomes an ongoing “battle”, it may not be worth the effort.
If you have algae presently, and you do successfully treat it biologically, you may even find that the pH will come down during this process which is another benefit of working with natural tools for pond cleaning.
Please leave any questions or comments below.